Many women and non-binary a part of the natural hair movement are very familiar with the hair type scale that categorizes hair based on their texture using numbers and letters (3B, 4C, etc.). Such categories have been further understood with the help of illustrations, videos, and other forms of tutorials and guides. The scale has been one of the many reasons why women have grown and evolved to be more comfortable with their natural hair.
Concerning its origin, a man by the name of Andre Walker conjured up the “hair chart” in the early 1990s when he released his own line of curly hair products. Though I have even fallen victim to the standards and specificities of this hair scale, there has been a history of anti-black rhetoric and an underlying hierarchy that has been created because of this hair chart.
I would like to first address the issues that have manifested within this categorization of hair, as well as the things that this chart does not address or consider when referring to hair. The concept of hair, let alone the hair of Black women and non-binary, has gradually evolved. We have gone from perms, wigs, protective styles, to almost any other style you could name. So how is it possible that this hair chart has yet to go through any revisions or alterations that accommodate and grow as the public learns more and more about natural hair? The issue with this is that not only do these curl patterns become impacted and change during the seasons, but in many cases, hair texture does not fall within one of those distinct categories as different textures often reside in different parts of the head. In addition, Walker does not address the following things that may also affect the texture of hair: heat damage, differences in length, porosity, dryness, hormonal changes, and chemical changes.
To shed some more light on the hierarchy that is created with the hair scale, we must understand how one refers to straight in comparison to kinkier hair and where it lies in that chart. Starting with straight hair as number one on the scale, and then gradually going up to end with kinky hair (Type 4) last only provokes me to think the kinky/curlier the hair, the less manageable it is. Andre Walker has even quoted in Elle Magazine exclaiming, “I always recommend embracing your natural texture. Kinky hair can have limited styling options; that’s the only hair type that I suggest altering with professional relaxing.” To clarify, this statement is false and proves to expose how hairstylists and the media view and perceives kinkier hair textures. You do not need to relax your hair to achieve a certain look, and if anything, kinkier hair can retain hairstyles much better than looser/oilier hair textures. And when reflecting on my own experiences, perms, and any product to manipulate my curl pattern conditioned me to believe that my natural hair was unprofessional nor was it accepted by my peers. Walker ultimately shows he’s biased and quite frankly should not be seeking support from Black customers if he so chooses to speak of Type 4 hair in such a manner.
Though his hair chart has proved to be a good starting point for women that desire to be a part of the natural hair movement, I reckon that we all take the time to learn more about our hair and have better relationships with it as well. The natural hair community is constantly evolving and we must all recognize that all hair is beautiful whether in its natural state or not.